Gabs week two. "Howzit Lekgowa?"

The first week of school has been insanity. Beginning with the (evidently) standard practice of professors not showing up for the first one (or maybe two (or maybe three!)) classes and culminating in the comment “...but seriously, I didn’t know I was a Black man until 1997” provided by my Economics of Botswana and Southern Africa professor after pointing me out-in a rather insensitive manner- as the only white student in the room. I think the aim of his comment was to reconcile putting me on the spot or at least soften his jabs at me as a colonizer...which was nice (sort of); “...but seriously...” it held a lot of weight for me - even if all of the other students in the class apologized to me and this particular professor always has his dress shirt tucked into his briefs ABOVE his belt line.

His point was to tell the story of going to Sweden for a conference in 1997 and being aware of his race for the first time, I think that is maybe where I find myself now. As much as the place and people I come from are interested in investing in conversations about race (gender, sexuality, class etc) I was in no way prepared for what it would be like to be a lekgowa ((LA koh UH) one spit from the sea) in a country where I am very much a standout minority. It feels both very disarming and very healthy (?) to walk around and hear every tenth person say lekgowa- if nothing else it has encouraged me to practice my Setswana extra.

On the whole my courses are interesting and similar to something we would find ourselves in in ‘the states.’ I am taking Development Economics, Economics of Botswana and Southern Africa, African Literature; The Novel and Oral Traditions, African Philosophy and Culture, and Rural Development.

The bureaucracy of the University of Botswana is unlike anything you are likely to experience. I am becoming more accustomed to the waiting and to my thoughtful time but it is super exhausting. If you recall (from my previous post) the UB student ID card is sort of a golden ticket on campus. And so it makes sense that it took three offices, and five hours of walking around and waiting in line to get. All of that time my irritations were pacified knowing that I would just do this once and be good to go. What surprised me was that to punch a hole in the card so I could place it conveniently on my university provided lanyard (sp!?) would demagnetize it. I have yet to get another.

I have to finish paperwork that extends my visa at the immigration office on Friday, I am sensing it won’t be a quick endeavor.

The realm of non-academic adventures (per usual) is far more exciting. I have climbed Kgale Hill, which is precisely that a hill, but it is about an hour ascent and really beautiful. (See link to Picasa for photos) I have seen Zebras, Ostrich (which are really freaky in real life...velociraptor?), Warthogs, meerkats (meerCUTE)*, and most frightening so far the Komodo Lizard- cousin to the dragon- it is a bit smaller but equally fast and poisonous, it ran in front of our van, they are about the size of a welsh corgi dog (I realize that is an odd reference point but it was how it was explained to me.) The Batswana and international students alike appreciate a good drink so that has proved for some silly times with the cross cultural exchange of songs and games. Clubs and events here often advertise ‘guaranteed fun til 6am’ and in all seriousness friday and saturday nights go til 6 am. (Well maybe closer to 4 but still late.) Friday night was spent at the Bull and Bush, the local expat hang out known for ribs AND dancing; a duo I never anticipated. I have been no where where dancing is as fun and full hearted as Bots. (Ladies of 15th and Columbia you are very much missed in the club, especially the rib eating club.)

We have found some more familiar and more yummy (less familiar) foods, everyday across from campus you can get a hotdog to the likes of something found at costco for 10 pula or an all-you-can-pack-on-your-plate-in-one-trip-through buffet of more traditional foods for 15 pula. The buffet is quite yummy but I learned the hard way only to eat there for lunch when it is first made, coleslaw at 7pm after a day under the African sun was not my best evening here.

While everyone is working hard to find good food, ultimately everything has the underlying very unique flavor of Botswana.

MilkyChoc is a new favorite treat, basically a fudge cycle. I already sense those will be consumed frequently and they come from the school refractory (cafeteria) which is defs the hot spot for meeting local friends. I am avoiding Makgowa (a mob or large group of white people) so as to make myself more approachable, but people have funny expectations for me as an American and making local friends has proved harder than expected.

Everyone affiliated with the international student center has basically told us that Batswana perceive all white people as American and all American’s as wealthy- so people to rob- and all American women as leading a “fast and easy lifestyle.” (This makes a bit more sense to me now since every cafe, restaurant where ever you go has a television playing VH1 top 40- watch that Kati Perry video, california girls (?) a few times and then see how you would expect an American girl to be- not that I am making excuses for gender degradation.) Basically, I feel that we were sort of scared so as to not be haphazard with our things, our information, our time, but when push comes to shove all of us are a little paranoid now and it is difficult to feel like you have to continuously be distrustful. I have faith in finding the balance though. The good conversations I have had with Batswana have been really good. It is pretty remarkable how people requiring you to define yourself and your culture forces you to do that for yourself.

Any clumsiness that normally accompanies me has been greatly accentuated by the rough terrain here. Most problematic are the steps, there is no requirement or standard for the height of steps, so even on campus or in shopping centers one step will be 8 inches high and the next will be 3 and then 6 and 7 then 11. There are also holes, just holes, holes that range from 3 to 10 feet deep everywhere and thorny bushes.
Tomorrow I have a meeting with Emang Basadi and organization founded  “To develop action-orientated strategies and mobilize women to take steps that will help to change the social, political, economic and legal position of women in Botswana.” I am very much looking forward to the opportunity.

Upcoming adventures also include a student club fair, I have my eye on bridge club and the University of Botswana Wildlife Conservation Club. This weekend camping in the Mokolodi. I am also attempting to live on 20 pula a day for this next week and see how that goes.

Add reese’s to the list of things not found here.

Still no hot water in Las Vegas.

I miss miss miss home but am doing sharp**.


Jackie


*I hope everyone notes that is the advertisement campaign for the meerkat exhibit at Woodland Park Zoo, not my own neologism. 

**Afrikaans for very well.